On November 8, China welcomed Lidong, the 19th of the 24 solar terms on the traditional Chinese calendar that marks the beginning of winter. The arrival of Lidong is a sign that temperatures are gradually decreasing, and cold air is starting to be prevalent, with the cold season beginning.
In China, Lidong is associated not only with agricultural activities and seasonal eating habits but also carries people’s hopes and aspirations for the winter season. In ancient China, the arrival of Lidong is celebrated with worship (祭拜). This day marked a time when people presented offerings to convey their thankfulness for a year of fruitful harvest and to honor departed loved ones with food held in storage. This also presented an opportunity to recognize and appreciate the hard work of the entire family over the year. In rural regions, a grand feast using the harvest from their fields is often prepared.
A traditional Lidong menu includes a variety of classic dishes, with one standout favorite being dumplings — especially in the northern part of China. In Chinese culture, the word for “dumplings” phonetically resembles the term for the “meeting” of two seasons, giving rise to the charming tradition of consuming dumplings on this day. In the northern regions, there was another belief associated with dumplings: resembling ears, their shape used to lead people to believe that eating them would help safeguard them from the discomfort of coldness during the winter months. Mutton hotpot is another extremely popular dish and consuming it at the beginning of winter is a tradition that dates back to the Qing Dynasty (1644-1911). The bronze hotpot once enjoyed by royalty in the Forbidden City, has lasted in popularity and continues to be cherished by people in modern-day Beijing.
In China’s southern regions, tradition calls for people to drink a bottle of yellow rice wine. When gently heated in hot water, it not only enhances the enjoyment of the drink but also contributes to keeping the body warm in accordance with local customs.
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